Restaurants

Here’s a list of personal favourites. You won’t necessarily find them in a guidebook, but they have been tried and tested by us MANY times.  

LA CASTELA (Spanish)

We tell all our visiting friends that you absolutely must eat at La Castela. Near Ibiza station (Line 9), east side of Retiro. It’s Michelin Bib Gourmand, so don’t just turn up –  make sure you book online.

Eat in ‘la barra’ on a ‘mesa alta’ if you can for the full effect!

Order about 3 or so dishes to share – highly recommend the Milhojas de ventresca and  Chipirones encebollados… but basically everything on this menu is amazing!

90 min seating so don’t be late! The waitstaff have a Melbourne attitude but an old school Mediterranean approach… they are awesome but their English is a bit sketchy. You can eat and drink like a king here but will be hard-pressed to spend more than 75€ between two.

TORIKEY (Japanese)

Another favourite is the best Japanese we’ve ever had… also a Michelin recommendation.  Torikey near Ríos Rosas. Again, you’ll be hard-pressed to spend more than 80€ on a meal for two here! And it’s incredible! Booking online is best.

LA MORENA (Mediterrean Fusion)

La Morena is in the north, beyond Santiago Bernabeu, near Plaza de Castilla. Come for the incredible food, stay for the insane bathrooms. (If you know, you know…)

Mercados

Madrid is full of traditional markets that also have great food.

San Miguel is the most famous and a must-visit for first-time visitors.. but be warned, it can be BUSY!

San Anton in Chueca is a great easy place for a snack and a beer. There is a fancy rooftop terrace restaurant here too.

Mercado de Vallehermoso is a great vibe and has a fantastic array of craft beer and food options.

Mercado de Anton Martin is another old neighbood favourite, where you’ll find a bunch of very popular places. 

Cheap eats (plus good with kids)

• Fogg Bar beer & burgers – don’t let the name fool you, these burgers are not just an afterthought. The menu is packed with gourmet-style burgers (the Chevre is my go-to) and butifarras (a.k.a. next-level sausages). Wash it all down with a fantastically curated selection of craft beers from near and far. Dani and his team in Pacifico have recently moved to a bigger place up near Retiro – 3 levels of fun plus a terraza!

• Casa Mingo traditional roast chicken… old school but delish! Walk it off with a stroll down the Manzanares after lunch, but first make sure you check out Goya’s frescos in the chapel San Antonio de la Florida next door.

• Piri Peri Frango al Carbon – charcoal Portuguese chicken with excellent sides. Good value fast food for takeaway or eat-in (also available on UberEats etc)

• El Japo in Calle Segasta – good value Japanese with a trendy vibe. part of a chain but the Menu del Día is fantastic value.

Easy Lunches

There are a heap of chain-store options for a quick bite while touristing!

Look out for the Spanish chain Granier for an easy bocadillo (ie. roll filled with a deli meat, cheese and salad combo) and a pastry.

Also Rodilla do sandwiches kind of like Prêt-a-manger (but with no crusts… I’m still not sure why?!?)

But without doubt, if you have the time the best lunch is the Menu del Día offered at most restaurants or bars in the city. They are a cheap and fast option (everything is prepared and ready for a quick three-course meal), but also this is how you are likely to stumble across some amazing Spanish or Latin American home-cooked food.

Bars

If there is something Madrid has no shortage of, it’s bars!

And terraces!

Particularly bars with terraces!

There are too many to reasonably list but here are a few faves. 

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AZOTEAS (ROOFTOP TERRACES)

Madrid is well known for stunning rooftop bars – and there’s no shortage of them in the centre of the city and along Gran Via!

Google it… There’s literally dozens of options, though the good ones will want you to pay a hefty amount up front for a reservation.

However, if you are willing to wing it there are some good options to be had.

**July 2022 update – tried Ella Sky Bar on Gran Via – no reservation, just rocked up around 5pm. Charged 10€ a head at the desk just before the elevator, but that includes 2 drink tokens. There was no one else in the entire place when we arrived, and the views are awesome. The cooling misters on the top deck worked their magic despite the 37 deg heat, so had a few glasses of bubbles as we watched the sun set over Casa del Campo – perfect and cheap!**

**Update Sept 2023** – Reservations are expensive at Azotea del Círculo de Bellas Artes, but they do take walkups. Pay 5€ in the lobby and take the lift to the top for fantastic views to the north and east. On a busy day you will need to wait, but midweek or off season you’ll have no problem heading straight in for a fancy drink and nibbles.

INSIDERS TIP: if you want rooftop vibes with spectacular views but at department store food-court prices, head to the rooftop at El Corte Ingles Gran Via. Sometimes it can be a little busy but if you lurk for a few minutes you should be able to nab a table outside… just be patient!

Just head into El Corte Ingles at Callao and head to the top floor “gourmet experience”